Bonnet hinge finished.

June 28th, 2015

I finally got around to finishing the bonnet hinge. I made the mounting block that holds it to the car from a srtip of the same metal the hinge pieces are made from. I just bent it around the hinge pin then made a block from steel that it was attached to. I filed the top of the steel block to make a groove for the hinge pin.

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The sheet metal was soft soldered to the steel. I used an 8mm bolt (same diameter as the brass rod) with some tin foil wrapped around it so the solder wouldn’t stick to it. A stainless steel bolt would have worked too but I couldn’t find one! Lots of flux and lots of heat and then I applied the solder from the top of the join.  The solder pulls itself into the joint through capillary action. I could tell when it had done so the by small drops of solder around the rod. When cool I pulled the bolts out and ran an 8mm drill though it to remove any remaining solder.

I drilled and tapped the bottom of the blot for a 1/4 BSF stud. That holds the hinge to the rail attached to the car. You can simply remove the single nut holding it on and remove the bonnet in one piece.

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Joss is getting set up for some aluminium work in a few weeks so we will make the bonnet then too. I do need to get some smaller diameter brass rod though for the side hinge pins.

I also did more garage tidy up and put things up on my new shelves I made last weekend. There is a shelf running along the back wall now where I can put things up out of the way. A lot of it is stuff that is of no use but too cool to throw out.

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I also cleared the corner where I will be putting up some proper shelving. The cheap $20 galvanised things are pretty useless really. I’ll get some decent shelves to the ceiling and then I will have a lot of space to store things.

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The other interesting thing was an old chap who lives down the road popped in. People are always stopping to talk to me about the cars and what I am doing. I have chatted to him before. This time he bought me presents! First is a Lucas ignition and light switch. It’s never been used! He said he has had it in a drawer for over 40 years so was pleased to find someone who could use it. It’s exactly the same as the old one in the special so I can use this instead of the worn out one. The other thing was an interesting little spark tester. It’s called a Brolt Spark Gauge. It’s about the size of a lip stick and has a brass cam on one end and some kind of bulb in the middle. I haven’t tried it yet. I will have to test it on the Chummy at some point.

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Speaking of the Chummy the wheels are all out for blasting. I am having them media blasted then just phosphate coated so I can  adjust and replace any bad spokes. I am getting 6 wheels blasted so there should be enough rims, centres and spokes to make up a good set of 5. If I need to respoke a wheel I will need to make up some kind of jig to make sure everything is centred I guess. Once the wheels are done I can paint them and refit the tyres. I also ordered new tubes to use in them.

I also finally finished fixing the front of the MG. I repaired and repainted the front valance. Looks much better now although it’s the cleanest bit on the car, the rest of it badly needs a wash and wax!

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I had just posted this then had an idea. I could test out the Brolt Spark Gauge with my plasma lamp I made years ago. It generates a high voltage, about 15kV at about 16kHz, and can make bulbs and fluorescent tubes light up from quite a distance away. So I fired it up and yes, it makes the spark gauge light up too. It lights up orange so I guess inside there is just a little neon bulb. So it should work fine on the Chummy.

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You could probably make such a gauge using an ordinary neon pigtail lap I think.

 

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