Bonnet hinge finished.

June 28th, 2015

I finally got around to finishing the bonnet hinge. I made the mounting block that holds it to the car from a srtip of the same metal the hinge pieces are made from. I just bent it around the hinge pin then made a block from steel that it was attached to. I filed the top of the steel block to make a groove for the hinge pin.

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The sheet metal was soft soldered to the steel. I used an 8mm bolt (same diameter as the brass rod) with some tin foil wrapped around it so the solder wouldn’t stick to it. A stainless steel bolt would have worked too but I couldn’t find one! Lots of flux and lots of heat and then I applied the solder from the top of the join.  The solder pulls itself into the joint through capillary action. I could tell when it had done so the by small drops of solder around the rod. When cool I pulled the bolts out and ran an 8mm drill though it to remove any remaining solder.

I drilled and tapped the bottom of the blot for a 1/4 BSF stud. That holds the hinge to the rail attached to the car. You can simply remove the single nut holding it on and remove the bonnet in one piece.

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Joss is getting set up for some aluminium work in a few weeks so we will make the bonnet then too. I do need to get some smaller diameter brass rod though for the side hinge pins.

I also did more garage tidy up and put things up on my new shelves I made last weekend. There is a shelf running along the back wall now where I can put things up out of the way. A lot of it is stuff that is of no use but too cool to throw out.

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I also cleared the corner where I will be putting up some proper shelving. The cheap $20 galvanised things are pretty useless really. I’ll get some decent shelves to the ceiling and then I will have a lot of space to store things.


The other interesting thing was an old chap who lives down the road popped in. People are always stopping to talk to me about the cars and what I am doing. I have chatted to him before. This time he bought me presents! First is a Lucas ignition and light switch. It’s never been used! He said he has had it in a drawer for over 40 years so was pleased to find someone who could use it. It’s exactly the same as the old one in the special so I can use this instead of the worn out one. The other thing was an interesting little spark tester. It’s called a Brolt Spark Gauge. It’s about the size of a lip stick and has a brass cam on one end and some kind of bulb in the middle. I haven’t tried it yet. I will have to test it on the Chummy at some point.

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Speaking of the Chummy the wheels are all out for blasting. I am having them media blasted then just phosphate coated so I can  adjust and replace any bad spokes. I am getting 6 wheels blasted so there should be enough rims, centres and spokes to make up a good set of 5. If I need to respoke a wheel I will need to make up some kind of jig to make sure everything is centred I guess. Once the wheels are done I can paint them and refit the tyres. I also ordered new tubes to use in them.

I also finally finished fixing the front of the MG. I repaired and repainted the front valance. Looks much better now although it’s the cleanest bit on the car, the rest of it badly needs a wash and wax!


I had just posted this then had an idea. I could test out the Brolt Spark Gauge with my plasma lamp I made years ago. It generates a high voltage, about 15kV at about 16kHz, and can make bulbs and fluorescent tubes light up from quite a distance away. So I fired it up and yes, it makes the spark gauge light up too. It lights up orange so I guess inside there is just a little neon bulb. So it should work fine on the Chummy.


You could probably make such a gauge using an ordinary neon pigtail lap I think.


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