Remote gear shift.

April 25th, 2013

Today I riveted the battery box in place (pop for now but blind rivets later once it’s all painted) and did some work on the remote shifter.

I took a piece of steel bar and battled my lathe (badly in need of adjustment) to turn up a metal disc fit inside the clevis rod end. I made the diameter as big as I could so it would fit in the clevis and still pass through the metal collar that screws the shift lever down into place. I then cut the shifter down, about 4 inches above the pivot point, then filed the end to match the disc and I brazed it in place. I then filed the shaft to blend into the disc. I then realised I still had to get the spring in place but it wouldn’t fit over the disc so I carefully wound it on over the shaft.

IMG_3817_1 Putting spring on.

I then took the spring off again and put it on the RIGHT way up (big end up) and then put the steel threaded collar in place.

IMG_3818_1 IMG_3821_1 IMG_3825_1

That all then drops onto the top of the gearbox. The ball fits into the little cylinder and a pin through it stops it rotating while letting the lever move without rotating.

I then fitted the clevis road end to a length of 8mm threaded rod temporarily to test it. I will make a tube with threaded ends in the final shifter as the 8mm rod isn’t rigid enough to resist bending and of course it looks pretty amateur too!

IMG_3827_1 IMG_3829_1

Shifter with temporary rod.

Now this whole set up looks like it won’t work. You’d think it would all be too floppy but the sideways force needed to move the shifter is pretty small. It basically flops left to right. The effort to go forwards and back is much more since that is what’s shifting things about inside the gearbox. In that case the force is transmitted straight down the rod against the pin through the clevis so that’s actually all very tight. Pushing and pulling the rod is bloody stiff but that’s because there isn’t much leverage there.

I still need to make the second mounting point on the remote shifter. That is simply a second gearbox top bolted to the top of the transmission tunnel (I made that flat and the same width for exactly this¬† reason). I’ll put the pivot the same height up the second stick. But the remote stick is longer than the cut down front stick. The gear knob will be another 4 inches above the pivot point so by my reckoning the ball will move twice as far as the pivot point but it should take half the force to do so – levers and all that.¬† So hopefully the actual change will only be half bloody stiff.

To get reverse you normally lift the stick up then move it hard right and back. I will remove the lift function from the gearbox end but make a similar interlock under the remote shifter. What I want to do is make steel plate with an H gate cut into it and a block to provide the reverse interlock. This plate will have nuts brazed to it that the remote shifter bolts down to. The plate will be attached to the transmission tunnel from underneath making it captive. Then the remote shifter will just bolt down to the top of the tunnel without me having to fiddle with nuts and bolts under the car.

Since I won’t be able to fit the little curved cover over the tops of the hole the shifter comes out I might try to find some suitable rubber boots or make a little leather gaiter of some sort to stop water and dust getting into the spring.

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