Parts.

November 7th, 2013

I haven’t done much since I got the rear firewall in. That’s all welded in place now. I’ve been busy sorting out a new job so this week not much has been done. Today I went to visit Joss and collected some aluminium (to make more welding rods) and to borrow a seat. We also discussed how I can do the rear axle cover. I am looking at doing a curved piece which I will make from several pieces of steel welded together. It will be curved in two direction so will test my metalworking skills to make!

IMG_4385_1 IMG_4386_1

This shows the sort of curve I need. The corner between the horizontal piece and the vertical piece will also be curved.

The seat I borrowed is steel but I will probably make one form aluminium along the same pattern. It’s very tight. I better not get fat! I will probably lower the seat back so it fits inside the body better, perhaps contouring it to follow the line of the body. To get in and out you basically stand on the seat then have to slide down into it hoping your legs go in the right places under the steering wheel once gravity takes over!

IMG_4383_1 Seat.

I was saying to Joss what I need is some engine parts to arrive to inspire me. I got home, parked the MG in the garage and just then a courier arrived. My parts from David in the UK!

IMG_4375_1 IMG_4377_1

IMG_4373_1 IMG_4371_1

New valves (exhaust on the left and larger inlet on the right), collets, valve guides, studs, nuts and spring holder things whose name I have forgotten. The double springs are from the local VAR spares branch. Most importantly the pistons arrived. They are very nice slipper pistons. They come with pins and rings and so on too. They a +64 thou and are apparently a metric size meaning it’s easier to get rings for them as they are used in motorcycles. I don’t know which ones though.

With the pistons I can now look at getting the block and head seen too. I did want to give them a final clean though and have been testing out using molasses for rust removal.

I didn’t want to test it on the block and head first so I have been trying it out the last couple of weeks on a railway points lever I am restoring (http://www.valleysignals.org.nz/track/springpoints.html). I left them sitting in a plastic  rubbish bin with 5kg of Molasses in it dissolved in water. The ratio people use seems to vary but I doubt it really matters. I just filled the bin with water. I left the parts submerged for several weeks. Some parts are two big so were only partially submerged but that makes it easy to see the result.

IMG_4379_1 Molasses.

You do get a thick froth on top of the solution. I just scooped it off periodically and put that on the garden. After taking the parts off I hosed them down and then rubbed them with a green scotch pad to remove the left over black residue. The molasses doesn’t affect paint it seems as paint remained there. The rust those is eaten away. You can see the result on the main lever body which I could only submerge half way.

IMG_4380_1 IMG_4381_1

That worked so well I now have the block and head soaking in it. This should work better than the electrolysis method since the molasses will get inside everything and clean out the insides of the water passages. Once they are clean I can take the head to be machined to fit the pistons.

The other thing I did today was ring a chap in the UK about a suitable cam. A cam for a blown engine has different opening times than a standard cam. So if I go for one of them I definitely have to add a blower.

2 Responses to “Parts.”

  1. ratafiazheng Says:

    hey you might wanna consider having the steering wheel easily removable with something aling the lines of wingnuts like the racers from NASCAR heere in the States do.

  2. admin Says:

    Single seaters do that a lot (like the Duck) but it should be OK in mine as long as I don’t get any fatter!

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