Glove box.

March 11th, 2014

Back to the glove box today. Luckily Joss had some 0.8mm steel so I grabbed that today and made a new box, the correct height this time. I then made a nice end piece for the back of it.


I then made another nice end piece this time with the folds the right way up!


The end piece fits inside the back with the seam outside the box where it can be spot welded. That gives a nice, clean interior to the actual box.

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I then went ahead and did yet another silly thing (Joss is probably knows exactly what). I welded the end piece in place. Bad move. Fitting it up to the front of the panel I then realised that with the back in place you can’t get the spot welder in to weld it to the tabs on the instrument panel and you can’t get a long stick in to hammer over the bottom lip.


It turns out I was able to use the short arms on the spot welder and get the tabs welded in place. And I was also able, after much mucking about, to fold the bottom edge over. I used vice grips and carefully bent it back then was able to use a length of heavy bar that I was able to slide back and forth inside the box to flatten the lip over. In the end I got there.

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The box is shorter than the available space as I wanted to leave a gap between the back of the box and the firewall in case I have to access any bolts behind there later on. It is just long enough to hold a standard folded map.

I also today attempted to rivet the battery box in place on the firewall. I found that solid rivets were a right pain in the rear, there not being enough space to swing hammers to set them properly, so I ended up using pop rivets instead. I want the thing secure and I can appropriately doctor the pop rivet heads so that when it’s painted they look like proper rivets. The black paint is zinc primer that I sprayed between the layers of metal before I riveted them in place.


I did however solid rivet and paint the steering column/starter support bracket.


One annoying thing about the instrument panel is to fit it in place you need to lower the steering column down out of the way. But once it’s in place it shouldn’t need to come out often.


I want to add a light and a switch still and I am also still looking to find a larger 0-10PSI Austin oil gauge, the Ruby type, which I can mount to the right of the tachometer right in the drivers vision. I can then use the tiny one as a boost gauge.


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