Tearing apart my Miele S5210 vacuum cleaner

December 29th, 2009

This is my vacuum cleaner.

mieles5210 Miele S5210.

It’s a Miele S5210. It’s a very, very good vacuum cleaner. Well, it was until the point that it broke! Actually I was somewhat responsible for that. For a little while now I have been restoring a car (OK, almost 6 years but I am nearly done – www.asciimaton.co.nz/pics). After weeks of filling and sanding of filler I finally sent it off to the panel beaters to be painted. This left me with a garage full of sanding dust. I swept up what I could the used the vacuum to clean up the rest. Unfortunately your average house vacuum isn’t really designed to handle lots of very, very fine filler dust. I ended up clogging it up and the motor stopped running smoothly and instead started stuttering. I needed to take the vacuum cleaner apart to clean it and remove all the dust so it would run properly again. What follows is the procedure I used to take the vacuum cleaner apart. I imagine the process is probably similar to other Miele vacuum cleaner models.

I was inspired to do this page after I found the following page online for a different Miele model (a Miele s300): http://www.sannerud.com/house/miele.html

You don’t need many tools to take the vacuum cleaner apart. Just a Torx T20 driver and a small flat screwdriver to push on the plastic clips that holds the parts together. All the screws used to hold it together are the same. The Torx bit shown here is actually a tamper proof Torx bit with a hole in the middle but it works fine on the screws. Click on any of the pictures for a larger view.

torx20 Torx screw and T20 Torx driver bit.

First unplug the vacuum cleaner and remove the bag and all the filters. The small silver honeycomb filter just clips in place. Remove this so you can then remove the lid.

removinglid The clips holding the lid on.

The lid just slides onto the hinges and two small square clips hold it in place as shown above. Depress the small squares and then slide the lid off the hinges.

honeycombfilter Large honeycomb filter.

The large honeycomb filter is also just clipped in place. Carefully push back the two clips shown circled above and the filter should come out.

rearplastic Rear plastic piece.

The plastic piece at the rear between the two buttons is also just held in place by clips. Brute force will remove this. Just yank it upwards and it will pop loose.

speedselector1 Removing the speed selector.

With the rear cover removed you should see two screws holding the speed selector part in place. Remove these.

speedselector2 Clips holding speed selector in place.

With the two screws removed the speed selector can be removed by pushing in the small clips that hold the front of it in place and lifting it off. This piece just contains the knob that controls the speed. The knob has a stalk that sticks down underneath it that fits into a selector switch on the electronics board.

topcover Top cover screws.

The top cover is held in place with four screws shown, two at the front and two down deep holes in front of each button. Undo these then the top cover should lift off.

electronicsboard1 Top cover removed.

electronicsboard2 Electronics board plug.

With the top cover removed you can see the electronics board. It’s pretty simple really and doesn’t have much on it. The board should be free to pull off now. The only thing holding it in place is the connector shown above. Simply unplug this connector and the board will lift off.

motorcover Inner cover.

With the electronics board removed you should be able to see the screws holding the inner cover in place. There are three at the back and one in the centre as shown above. Remove all these screws.

coverclips Clips holding inner cover.

As well as the four screws there is a clip either side of the cover on the sides of the vacuum. You can simply pop these apart by hand then the inner cover should lift off. There is a small rubber hose that goes between the cover and the cord retractor mechanism which you also need to disconnect from the cover (it will probably just fall off anyway).

coverremovedInner cover removed.

With the inner cover removed you can now remove the motor (which has a foam pad over it) and the cord retracting mechanism. The only trick here is to unplug the connector that joins the two together.

motorplug Motor connector.

The motor and cord retractor will simply lift out. I gave everything a good cleaning to get all the dust out. I used my air compressor to blow it all clean. With all the dust removed from the motor I sprayed it’s brushes with electrical contact cleaner. I didn’t go as far as dismantling the motor itself (March 2010 – OK, I did eventually See below!).

brushes Contact cleaner for the brushes.

The brushes are either side of the motor and I simply sprayed cleaner into the hole at back of them.

After letting the contact cleaner dry I put the motor, cord retractor and electronics boards temporarily back in place the tested the vacuum. You need to be VERY careful doing this as nothing is properly attached and there are exposed mains connections that will bit you it you touch them (don’t ask how I know). Also the vacuum motor is extremely loud when not encased in plastic!

Once everything was cleaned and working again reassembling the vacuum cleaner is basically the revers of taking it apart. Make sure you reattach the small rubber hose and also make sure the cord and plug are free and don’t get caught when screwing all the pieces of the case back together.

After my cleaning and spraying the motor with contact cleaner the vacuum is working nicely again. I know now I should really get a nice shop vac for cleaning the garage and leave the Miele for purely domestic duties!

I can really recommend these vacuums. They are good value for money and very powerful. And now, having seen how they look inside, I can say they are very nice quality too.

Update March 2010.

I have had a few people comment that this page was useful so I decided to post the second part of my vacuum cleaning story in case people find this further detail helpful.

My cleaned up vacuum worked well for a little while but then the motor started stuttering again until eventually it stopped running altogether. Another tear down was in order. This time right down to the motor itself. Again the nice design of the Miele made this an easy job to tackle.

First you need to remove the motor from the vacuum as described above. Then carefully tap off the metal shield on the end of the motor exposing the blower fan. Next remove the nut holding the blower fan in place. Now it was a few months ago that I did this but from memory the nut is a reverse threaded one, i.e. turn it clockwise to undo it. This allows you to pull off the aluminium blower and the flat spacer washer.

IMG_7605_1 Nut and blower removed.

Next you can lift out the two carbon motor brushes. These are simply held in with spade connectors so you can just pull them straight out. In the picture below you can see the female spade socket on the face of the stator housing.

IMG_7608_1 One brush already removed. The other still in place.

The brushes are nice and long so should last a very long time.You can see the long male spade connector on the bottom of the brass housing. You can also see how despite my previous cleaning this brush is still covered in sanding dust. If I didn’t mention it above I should say don’t sand filler off a car (http://asciimation.co.nz/pics/page18.html) then use this vacuum to collect the dust!

IMG_7606_1 Nice brush. Boom! Boom!

With the brushes removed (and cleaned up with electrical cleaner) you can remove the stator. There is a metal spring clip that holds it in place. If you press this down the stator should then slide out.

IMG_7610_1 Spring clip holding stator down.

The electronic controller is attached to the stator and will come put with it. You can see the top of a TO220 type device sticking out of the top of the plastic housing. We get to that in a minute. The inside of the stator and housing were both covered in the sanding dust so I cleaned these up as well.

IMG_7611_1 Stator removed. Note the electronics are still attached.

Next you can carefully pull out the rotor. This has bearings on each end and the lower bearing is a press fit into the housing. You need to carefully pull this out. The rotor will come out in one piece. Be careful not to lose the little flat spring washer though.

IMG_7612_1 Rotor removed.

The observant of you will probably have noticed one of the problems with the motor. The commutator on the end of the rotor, that ring of copper strips the brushes rub against, are filthy and scored. To fix this I carefully mounted the rotor in my mini-lathe. You only need to grip it very lightly in the three jaw chuck. I made sure it was running true and turned it on. I then used some fine wet and dry sandpaper folded into a long strip to carefully sand down the commutator.

IMG_7614_1 Rotor mounted in lathe.

I didn’t try to get the commutator perfectly smooth as I didn’t want to sand too much away. It still has a few small scores around it but it doesn’t need to be perfect. The deep scoring is actually where the edges of the brushes are in contact with the commutator so the brush is in contact with smooth copper on most of it’s face.

IMG_7615_1_1 Commutator after sanding.

Next I cleaned up the aluminium blower which was quite clogged with dust. A bit of electrical cleaner and a poke around the fins with a long cable tie did the trick.


After doing all this and cleaning everything to remove all the dust I reassembled the motor. Since I had given it a good clean with electrical cleaner I left the motor on top of my dark coloured garage roof to make sure it was fully dry before trying to run it again. I wanted to make sure all the cleaner had evaporated out of the motor and windings.

Unfortunately after putting it back in the vacuum cleaner and reassembling everything (with a little Loctite around the rotor bearing where it pressed into the housing) the motor was still dead! I had to take it apart again. This time I removed the motor, opened that up and removed the motor electronics. Again thanks to nice design this module just unclips since it is held in place with spade connectors.

IMG_7625_1 Motor electronics.

The electronics on the motor are incredible simple. Basically it’s just a TRIAC and what I think is a thermal cutout device.

IMG_7626_1 TRIAC and thermal cutout thingy?

About now the problem was pretty obvious. This TRIAC was burned out! A close inspection and a little prodding showed that TRIAC was burned out. Two of the legs were not even connected to the body anymore.

IMG_7628_1 Well there’s your problem!

I am not sure why this happened. I am guessing a combination of a badly connecting and arcing commutator and a motor clogged with sanding dust ended up cooking things. The TRIAC itself is a T2550h 600T which is a 25 amp TRIAC. These are available in NZ but not from the easy places like Jaycar or Dick Head Smith (who don’t really do electronics anymore despite their name). You can probably get them from the bigger suppliers like Farnell or RS but they would cost a bomb and you might not be able to buy just one. So I looked on eBay and found someone in the UK sells them for just a couple of quid. I ordered one of them.

This is the data sheet for this particular part: http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/6697.pdf

Once that arrived a week or so later it was a simple matter to unsolder the dead part and solder in the new TRIAC. I reassbmbled everything again (after this many time apart you get good at this bit) and finally everything was working again!

All that was actually done several months ago and the vacuum cleaner is still working happily now. I know these things aren’t supposed to be customer serviceable but it is nice to see that they are engineered in a way that means a customer with the right skills can successfully get in there and fix things.

Update September 2015.

OK, another update. My vacuum cleaner died again! But once again I was able to resurrect it after having to refer to my own instructions here to remember how to take it apart.

The issue was that it just stopped. Was running then just died and wouldn’t work again. I opened it up and found this:


That is the Klixon thermal cutout thingy. Interesting, right back in 2011 a visitor called Dave left this comment for me:

Thanks for a first-class tutorial on the Miele S5210. Well done, it saved me a load of time and effort.

My vacuum cleaner suffered the same fault as yours, and I have found out what caused it in my case. Taking apart the motor, I removed the triac PCB assembly. I noticed that one leg of the fuse had fractured, and there was evidence of sparking across the fracture. Prior to the failure, the vacuum motor had suddenly started making more noise, which turns out to have been due to the intermittent connection through the thermal fuse. After a few minutes, the sparking destroyed the triac and the unit died…but the thermal fuse was still OK! (apart from having one leg sheared off). I was able to repair the sheared leg and replaced the triac, and all is now fine and tickety-boo.

So the problem in this case was not poor filtering, but cracking of the thermal fuse, probably caused by the vibration. I wonder if the motor manufacturer ever assessed the thermal fuse for vibration susceptibility….

By the way, the “thingy” is a Klixon thermal fuse, rated at 18A. It’s hard to find any equivalent fuses, because you need the high current rating, and nobody seems to make an 18A rated fuse quite as small as this one.

Here’s a link: http://www.klixon.com/klixon/motor-protector-3mp-self.htm

Those comments are number 25 and 26 in the comments below btw. The exact same thing had obviously happened to mine. I said then I didn’t know how I would fix it, now I do!

The fuse is two metal sides joined together with an insulator between. The legs are just extensions of the cans. The fuse itself seems fine so I just needed to repair the leg. I used a piece of desoldering braid as a new leg. I used a piece saturated in solder and soldered it to the board first then to the side of the fuse.


Make sure the new leg is only connected to one side of the can. The tricky thing about this fuse (or any fuse) is normally it is a conductor and it needs to go open circuit in overload conditions. If you are not careful the new leg could actually be short circuiting the fuse rendering it useless. You vacuum will work but there will be no protection there. Of course the fuse is normally conducting so just measuring it with a multimeter won’t tell you anything. You have to inspect it visually to ensure it’s not shorting.

After putting it all back together the vacuum works fine again. While apart I gave it a good clean and checked the commutator and brushes. The commutator showed no more scoring since last time and a quick rub over with some glass paper left it clean. The brushes still have a lot of life in them.


Interestingly they wear unevenly. You can compare the wear to the last photo taken over 5 years ago now above. These days I have a dedicated shop vac so this one is only used for household duties which definitely helps with it staying running!

Out of all my web sites and blog posts and projects over the years this is the one page that gets the most comments! I am glad it is of use to people (including myself as it turns out).

163 Responses to “Tearing apart my Miele S5210 vacuum cleaner”

  1. Michelle Says:

    Hey Simon,

    This dude is trying to get into contact with you.

  2. steve barker Says:

    I found your site too late (it’s already in bits.I also went a step or 2 farther mine had done slightly more than complain a little and I believe the speed controller is toast. I did strip the motor to clean it I also took readings across the coils which gave readings of 4-10 ohms on the rotor the 2 out side spade connectors and 67ohms on the stator I’ve yet to prove the motor ok but it fits with what i would expect.I now wait for the spare to arrive £60 so an expensive lesson

  3. Eoin Says:

    Spot on. Had been looking for a while and only found your site today. Followed it to the letter and turns out that the underside of the on/off button had been damaged and wasn’t making contact with the switch underneath. Thanks to you, we are leaving the button switched on and will use the plug to switch it on and off – until we get the new part. Thanks for your endeavour in putting the detail up on the net.

  4. Niels Peter Says:

    Thanx for the efford. It helped me pull my machine apart and I found out, that my cord retractor has been broken and I don’t seem to be able to fix it – but your site helped me pull the stuff apart.


  5. Henry Says:

    The reason for the legs having broken off the triac body is likely to be the years of exposure to vibration whenever the vacuum cleaner’s motor was running. To solve this, glue the body of the triac down so it can’t vibrate. Use Ados F2 or neutral cure silicone sealant.

  6. Nick Korbakis Says:

    Miele vacuums suck
    Actually they don’t suck at all
    Volta lastest me 14 years
    Miele lastest me 14 months
    Now Miele doesn’t want to honour the warranty
    After sales service stinks
    You can’t complain about it because there is no after sales service
    Trust me DO NOT buy Miele
    Miele technician is claiming that the vacuum was used without a bag ( even I showed them the genuine bags purchased from Godfreys ) there is excessive dust in the motor and has failed?
    My question is that vacuum does not seal correctly because we only use it in the house
    now they shrug their shoulders
    “sorry can’t do anything more”

  7. Nick Korbakis Says:

    PS the notes and instructions in your website are very thourough. Better than a genuine instruction/workshop manual.
    Great work

  8. Simon Says:

    If you are in New Zealand I would say you can ask them to sort it out under the consumer guarantees act.


    14 months for a vacuum cleaner doesn’t sound fit for purpose to me!

  9. bernie Says:

    This was a great help. I had the same problem, bag burst then after time vacuum became so noisy I thought the bearings had gone, eventually it died. I pulled it apart, inspected the TRIAC, and sure enough the solder on one leg had melted and there was a dry joint. I tested the TRIAC, which tested OK, so re-soldered it, cleaned up the dust, cleaned out the inside of the fan blades that were clogged with compacted dust (dust was like hardboard), and walla!! it goes and sounds just like new!!!! To test TRIAC follow instructions at the end of this article http://www.ab.com/support/abdrives/documentation/fb/1012.pdf

    PS, id recommend the more expensive Miele dust bags. It was a cheap bag that burst. The Miele bags are way stronger and they hold at least twice the dust before loosing suction power.

  10. Chris Says:

    Excellent write up…I was able to take my Callisto apart to do some preventative maintenance. And didn’t break anything in the process. I wasn’t expecting to see such complexly molded parts after taking apart my old (spare) Eureka the weekend before but I guess that’s what separates a cheaply made vac from a well made one.

  11. Diane Says:

    Great help when one of the lid hinges slipped off. Your step-by-step pics and instructions saved the day. It’s always simple when you know how.

  12. Sebastian Says:

    Just wanted to clean out all that brick dust out of my S5210 after demolishing a chimney. (New house in French countryside). Your site was EXACTLY what I was looking for. Excellent work.

  13. Simon Says:

    Glad to help!

  14. Frank Says:


    Thanks for the write up and pics. I’m up to the part on the motor where I turned the nut clockwise, removed the blower… now how do I separate the two white plastic housing parts? The part right under the blower, is it being held together by force or something else? How did you separate them?


  15. Frank Says:

    I guess it’s held together by force :)
    I took the motor apart and found that the part that’s causing the noise, the reason I am doing this, is coming from the press-fit bearings at the bottom of the rotor. How do I lubricate these sealed bearing to keep it from sounding like a jet?

  16. joe dirt Says:

    great thread mate thanks a million. i pulled my miele to bits and couldnt find an obvious problem, so pulled the motor apart too and it turns out the bottom bearing on the rotor had collapsed and barely let it turn. stuffed if I can find where to get a replacement bearing, you wouldnt have come across anywhere on your travels would you?

  17. Simon Says:

    Not sure off the top of my head sorry. Best bet is take the dodgy one to a bearing place and get a replacement off them. In New Zealand you could try Saeco bearings: http://www.saeco.co.nz/

    They could measure it for you and find a replacement.

  18. Poida Says:

    Thanks for the write up. Great work!!

  19. Leo Schrader Says:

    Hi guys,

    a question from the other side of the world…….
    about the engine electronics, the other part, so not the Triac, what is that for?
    I unoftunately trashed the motor of my vacuumcleaner (miele s5210) with it’s electronics still attached to it. While trying to get the bottom bearing off, I wrecked it I’m afraid.
    I can get another motor (not the same Model) but it doesn’t have the same electronics in it’s connector.
    It seems that if i just replace the engine with a non original it will blow the electronics of the vacuumcleaner as a whole.
    Therfor I want to integrate a fine piece of homemade electronics into it and need to know the specifics of the other part showing on the pictures.

    Kind regards,

  20. leo schrader Says:

    Hi again there on the other side of the world!
    Posted yesterday, but can’t seem to find the post.
    Maybe I’, not allowed to?
    Anyway, I”LL try aagin:
    looking for the make of the “thingy”
    I trashed the old 2200W motor because I wrecked it while trying to release the bottom bearing.
    I can get a replacement 2000W motor but it doesn’t include the motor electronics. I found the triac (thanks for that!) but still need the other part.

    could anybody………?! Hope so.

    kind regards,

  21. Simon Says:

    Hi Leo, sorry I have to manually approve comments and was a bit slow. I don’t know what the other part actually is. Some kind of thermal cutout I think. But I don’t know where you could get one from. If you’re replacing the original motor with a less powerful one then you might be fine using the old electronics? I’m not really an expert but a TRIAC rated for the more powerful motor will certainly be fine for the lower powered one I think.

  22. Tim Says:

    Thank you so much mate!! Brilliant step by step guide. I’m a total washout at DIY which makes it even more impressive!! I was able to take the hoover appart and repair a frayed power cable. The hoover is working as good as ever!! Saved me buying another hoover. Well done!!

  23. Fernando Says:

    Great page!
    Well, my broken one is a german model s536. I guess carbon brushes are gone (11 years old). I could disassemble it but don’t know how to get to those brushes, it seems the motor is a little different. Beside the fact i cannot get Miele parts here in Brazil. My wife will go to Germany soon and will bring new ones. It will take a while…Anyway, thank you for your post, it is brilliant!

  24. Fernando Says:

    By the way, have you replaced your carbon brushes?
    Thanks in advance.

  25. Dave Coulson Says:

    Thanks for a first-class tutorial on the Miele S5210. Well done, it saved me a load of time and effort.

    My vacuum cleaner suffered the same fault as yours, and I have found out what caused it in my case. Taking apart the motor, I removed the triac PCB assembly. I noticed that one leg of the fuse had fractured, and there was evidence of sparking across the fracture. Prior to the failure, the vacuum motor had suddenly started making more noise, which turns out to have been due to the intermittent connection through the thermal fuse. After a few minutes, the sparking destroyed the triac and the unit died…but the thermal fuse was still OK! (apart from having one leg sheared off). I was able to repair the sheared leg and replaced the triac, and all is now fine and tickety-boo.

    So the problem in this case was not poor filtering, but cracking of the thermal fuse, probably caused by the vibration. I wonder if the motor manufacturer ever assessed the thermal fuse for vibration susceptibility….

  26. Dave Coulson Says:

    By the way, the “thingy” is a Klixon thermal fuse, rated at 18A. It’s hard to find any equivalent fuses, because you need the high current rating, and nobody seems to make an 18A rated fuse quite as small as this one.

    Here’s a link:

  27. Simon Says:

    No, it wasn’t necessary on mine. I am not sure what would happen when that’s needed. I would probably try to find something similar (from a power tool repairer maybe?) and make it fit.

  28. Merv Says:

    Gteat tutorial. Thanks for putting it together. I used it to fix a jammed cord.

  29. robert Says:

    Thank you, Thank you. After dismantling the whole machine, the motor was still jammed,then I nociced that one of the screws of the motor cover worked itself loose ((????))jamming the blower. I replaced the screws and added lockwashers, cleaned the whole v-cleaner.Now we have a vacum cleaner! Thanks again, My Son in law almost threw the v-c in the garbage.
    The most usefull article in the internet.

  30. Andy P Says:

    Thanks very much was very helpfull all fixed now.
    If you are looking for that TRIAC T2550h 600T it is not made any more so this is the one that i found to replace it and can buy here from RS Australia open to the public too

  31. mark Says:

    Great write up with fab photos, just the job. Rebuilt my s5210 after bearings got a bit rumbly! Incidently the same 608ZS bearings as my bosch grinder & roller skates!!!!
    Well made and very easily servicable vac!
    cheers :)

  32. stu Says:

    Great instructions. Had the exact model that one day stopped working. Gave the commutator a sand back to copper colour with sand paper. Now it works great.


  33. bill keogh Says:

    Great post and guide. Took everything apart Triac looks good( nothing broken or burnt) on/off works, brushes loads left on them, cleanerd motor, sanded down commutator etc.
    Powered up and ran ok, on/off worked suction selector worked and then it died!!!
    Cant let it beat me …..any suggestions.

  34. teamsano Says:

    again, thanks for the advice on this, i took the cleaner apart and found the rear bearing was collapsed, and as mentioned it’s the exact same size as a skateboard wheel bearing 608Z , which cost about £1 each. however, getting what was left of the old bearing off the rotor was hard work and in the process i clumsily damaged the winding, cleaner ran for 5 minutes then produced an impressive flume of smoke. i’ll try again later. haha.

  35. TrevTronix Says:

    For what it’s worth, removing a tight-fitting bearing can often be made easier by putting the whole armature in the freezer overnight. The shaft appears to contract slightly more than the bearing shell, making removal a whole lot easier! Great site- nice to see t’internet being used sensibly :-)
    While I’m on, anyone had problems with the motor speed varying, irrespective of the position of the speed control? Bearings, triac soldering etc. all seem OK.
    Thanks for a great resource, TT.

  36. Simon Says:

    With the motor running erratically I would check the state of the commutator. It might be scored or burnt a bit. I had to clean mine up to get the vacuum cleaner running smoothly again. It was a year an a half ago now that I took it all apart and the vacuum cleaner is still running well.

  37. Chris Says:

    Just brilliant… Thanks so much for this post and for the incredible set of instructions and photographs – Just saved me the cost of a new vacuum cleaner! The lady who cleaned for us swallowed up a plastic bag last week and kept on hoovering – it dislodged the hoover bag and the whole inside got swallowed up by the motor, it overheated and just stopped working. Because of your instructions I was able to strip the whole thing down, and once it was all clean, the TRIAD had blown around one leg and come loose on the board. A quick solder (which I hadn’t done since high school) and it was all working again, didn’t even need to replace the component. Thank you SO MUCH!

  38. Al Says:

    Old lady was very upset when hoover packed up- she loved her toy. Filters didn’t get replaced so clocked up motor with dust. Took it apart but worked intermittently – I thought that a front metal cowl was fixed!!! My friend, who had a problem with miele and followed these instructions suggested that I re-disassemble the motor. After proper cleaning works like a dream. Thank you.

  39. Juergen Says:

    Thanks from Germany. There is no description in the Internet in German language.

  40. John C Power Says:

    Any idea how to re-fit the spring loaded plastic cover which covers the attachments ?

  41. Jon Says:

    Rather ironic there is no description anywhere in German, given that it’s a German marque!

    Many thanks to teamsano for his tip about the skateboard bearing. That’s what I need and if it costs £1 – what a result!

  42. gregaiken usa Says:

    i was hoping some of the meile experts here have some insights/comments to make about the following common meile problem – vacuum turned on initially it vacuums at full power, shortly thereafter the machine either stops vacumming or reverts to weakest vacuum setting. you either turn on vacuum again, or press + to increase vacuum and the cycle continues. what might be wrong here? its a VERY COMMON issue that people search for on the major search engines.

  43. James Wyatt Says:

    Super explanation of how to dismantle this Meile vacuum. I was trying to fix the non retracting power cable. The spring had come off, but I’ve no idea jw to fix it back on. Any ideas very gratefully received!

  44. Aidan Bent Says:

    Hi great article on the Miele vacuum cleaner. I have one of these and it’s got much more noisy recently, (sounds like it’s ready for lift off)I think it is to do with the motor, is it relatively easy to dismantle?
    Many thanks

  45. Dylan Says:

    Hi Simon,

    Again as others have said great insite into getting in to the vacuum then the motor. I have a strange fault though. the motor seams to rattle/pop and gives off a strong electrical smell. I just assumed it was some form of debris. but I’ve had it apart twice now and it seems clean, I’ve switch lubed it and checked the TRIAC and resistor and they both look fine. Could it just be a bad contact with between the brushes and the rotor. I’ve cleaned up the rotor as suggested, would it be worth squaring off the brushes (loads left) to reform the curve in the carbon? Thanks.

  46. Simon Says:

    It sounds like it could be a commutator or brush type problem. I think it would be worth a try reshaping the brushes if you have tried everything else. The electrical smell would be from arcing I am guessing.

  47. Dylan Says:

    Thanks Simon, I’ll give that a bash. I have plenty knowledge in electronics, but I have never had a motor apart like this before!

  48. Colin Says:

    Where can you purchase the carbon brushes for the s5210, I have searched the majority of the Spares sites and have not had any luck

  49. Simon Says:

    I don’t know where you can get those exact brushes but what you can do is take one of the old ones to a shop that repairs power tools. They should have something similar. If you get a brush slightly too large you can file or sand them down to fit.

  50. Colin Says:

    Thanks Simon I’ll try your suggestion and let you know howmI get on



  51. Phil Says:

    Hi Simon – fantastic write up.
    Have you or anyone else ever taken the ball bearings off the shaft? If anyone has any ideas I would be happy to hear them.
    Thanks again for the great write up.

  52. Simon Says:

    Well, you could make some kind of bearing puller I guess. I have done it for others things in the past. No plans I am afraid. I always just cobble something up when needed.

  53. Scott Says:

    First off, great set of instructions. Way better than I had hoped for!
    So I had a guy in doing some plastering and he used my Meile to tidy up, he even took the bag out and kept using it. Vacuum still works but there’s a really high-pitched whirring noise and a slight smell of burning.
    I’ve stripped down to the motor to remove all the dust but can’t remove the flat spacer washer that goes over the threaded end of the rotor. (its in your image here: http://www.asciimation.co.nz/bb/wpg2?g2_itemId=464)
    I managed to get the rotor out of the housing but getting the brushes back in place will be a pain unless I can seperate the rotor from the plastic part of the blower.
    Any tips on getting that washer off?


  54. haby Says:

    My miele vacuum cleaner got water inside while I was cleaning my car which was leaking without realizing and the water was hidden under the carpet. Have you got any idea of what could have been damage inside it? is it a Motor or…..?

    Thank you

  55. Roelandt Says:


    Your writeup surely helped a lot in dismantling our machine.
    I had to open it up but for other symptoms: the motor started making weird noise and a burnt smell appeared.

    I tried cleaning the commutator with light pressure on sandpaper while hooking the motor to a 12 volt car battery. It looked OK, but when hooking it back up to mains power, sparks were flying everywhere. Do you have any idea what a remedy could be?
    If I could find another motor it would cost the proverbial arm and leg….. (as in € 160 Euro’s).


  56. Martin Says:

    Many thanks for a great set of instructions which were very easy to follow and very comprehensive even down to marking where the torx screws are. Very well done. Stripped and rebuilt my Miele in an hour and a half after someone had used it with no bag in it. Having cleaned the crud off I started the motor up before rebuilding the machine and it whined a bit like an air raid siren. Applied a few drops of oil to the rear bearing and all is silent once more. Rebuilt in a jiffy. Now sending her indoors off to get some filters and vac. bags. it will then be returned to the student rented house with instructions on not to use it without bags. I also have to say how well engineered the build was. Quite amazing at how easily it came apart with only a screwdriver and a torx driver. Full marks to Miele for design.

  57. Simon Says:

    So pleased I found your site, I needed to replace the power cord on my Miele and the description of how to strip the vac and the pictures were perfect. Thank you for publishing this excellent guide. You saved me a huge amount of time trying to figure things out and I am very VERY grateful. Thank you.

  58. Sandy Says:

    So I dropped a screw, no problem, just inverted the cleaner and shook it out.

    “!!!!???” a push-on connector on the floor too. Wait, 2 wires into the motor and a third one dangling out????? Note, the Molex push-on connector had never in its life been crimped !!!!!

    So, with 4 pins where wires go into the motor and 2 connected, the outer 2, where does the third wire go once I’ve soldered on to the uncrimped connector?

    A brilliant website. I tried to give up vacuum cleaner repairing (commercially) 5 decades ago.!!! However children turn up. Worst is my daughter headed 500 miles away taking her lathe with her so how to dress the commutator – Ho humm.

  59. Sandy Says:

    Further to the above I found out it had been in for servicing after it went “bang” and stopped. The service centre had cut the top of the triac board off after the triac had blown up and simply bypassed it. Why the wire was left dangling I’ve no idea. The armature sparks badly (shorted turn?) and the motor smells and only goes at full speed.

  60. Anthony Says:

    Thank you from the UK for these clear instructions.

    We too vacced up a lot of fine dust, and our S5380 machine got noisy with poor airflow.

    Your clean up procedure, and clean filters quietened it down and got it breathing again.

    Take extra care when pushing back the two clips holding the speed selector in place, else they bend them permanently.
    Thank you

  61. denis Says:

    Hello, thank very much for this correct info, here i found the aluminium fan which is broke on my vacuum cleaner. is the any hance to get a new one? just a aluminium blower fan?
    Best Regards Denis

  62. mike smith Says:

    Many thanks, our hover had wire damage and we would never have got it apart but for your instructions, great stuff our hover is as good as new again.
    God bless
    Ina and Mike Smith
    South Africa

  63. Cam Says:

    Thanks for your effort in posting this guide Simon.

    My mate was about to turf his unit and I said I would get my 8 year old to fix it, he offered the little bloke $50! Was doubting we would figure it out and then found your article.

    So today we sat down and totally stripped, lubed the bearings, cleaned insided the fan (and everywhere else), polished the commutator and got the auto-winder spinning like new, and fired it up to roar like a well mannered Rolls Royce turbine.

    The machine pulls like an Ox and my son’s very excited about his impending pay day :)

    The only problem was the rear bearing was somehow glued into the chassis and we had some minor flaking as I tapped it out, luckily not too bad.

    I have a similar Miele and she’s been a workhorse for 12 years. Think ill go back down the shed next Sunday and give her a re-birthing too.


  64. Simon Says:

    I hope he gets paid!

  65. Val vodic Says:

    I am using a 5 year old vacuum and where the air omes out of the metal vent it is very hot, is this normal?

  66. Bob Bertram Says:

    Hi Simon,
    Many thanks for this Simon, really usefull and job done.

  67. Roger woods Says:

    Excellent instructions. Got my vacuum took apart and put it together after fixing fault. Really helped! Thanks.

  68. Mark Says:

    Fantastic explanation! Just been quoted NZ$320 for a new motor for a S5211 from Cotters Electrical (NZ) who are the service agents for Miele. I may be incorrect but I feel this price is on the very high side for this item. Would anybody know of a parts supplier alternative?

  69. Richard Says:

    OK. So, the Miele S5211 suddenly smelt of burning and was noisy. Maybe something going astray into the motor, I think. I have followed the excellent instructions on this site and taken the whole thing to pieces. Some fractured pieces of metal in the bottom casing, but not a lot of dirt or dust. Cleaned carbon off the commutator. Cleaned brushes. Machine no better. Works on slow speed with no stuttering and some suction. Turn it up and it smells electrical, stutters quite a lot and struggles to get much speed up – almost as if the full power is too much for it. Is this a case for new carbon brushes – or something more serious?

  70. Ioannis Feidiarakis Says:

    I own the s5210 model. I have found this website through google search after my vacuum started making a strange noise and finally stopped operating.
    Congratulations for this great tutorial. I have now the motor in my hands and I want to open it too.
    Unfortunately I can not remove the metal shield of the motor.
    You say:”Then carefully tap off the metal shield on the end of the motor exposing the blower fan”. It seems very tightly connected on the plastic part of the motor. Is there some kind of trick to remove it?

    Thank you in advance

  71. Chris Says:

    Wish I had viewed this site before I stripped my S5260 (suspect carbon brush failure)
    However it’s apart BUT any idea where I can get some new brushes? (very similar to yours)
    Motor MRG 742/84-42/2F.


  72. Simon Says:

    I don’t know where to get the actual brushes from but a power tool repairing place might have something similar?

  73. Simon Says:

    It’s been so long I can’t remember but I am sure it was just a tight, push fit. It might be different on some vacuum cleaners though?

  74. GSDove Says:

    Think I have the same prob as your no. 3 We have an S6220 just out of warranty and now the foot switch doesn’t work but I can make the m/c work and control with the socket switch. The foot plate is ok so is it the black switch and or something underneath which I should order before using your guide?
    Best wishes, GSDove UK

  75. Chaz Says:

    Thank you, you made a miserable man very happy. One thing, how do you get the spring going to rewind the cable? Put it back together and it lost its tug.
    Gratefully yours,

  76. Chaz Says:

    By the way mine is a 5000tt and the rubber hose came off the winder unit, is it vital?

  77. Simon Says:

    I don’t know sorry? My experience is only the one I have!

  78. Simon Says:

    I can’t remember the details now I am afraid. My vacuum is still going strong so it’s been years since I took it apart.

  79. Simon Says:

    I guess take it apart and you might have a better idea what’s faulty?

  80. Cath Says:

    Thanks Simon Says
    I stupidly used my Miele S5211 without a bag. So we have used your instructions, pulled it apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it and it seems to be working fine. Very helpful, easy to follow instructions making a bit of a drama so much easier to manage! Thank you for sharing.

  81. Simon Says:

    Glad it helped!

  82. Nazli Says:

    Thank you very very much Simon, you are gorgeous. By the help of your tutorial, i have saved like a 250 dollars. Everything was so clear that i’ve done this thing without the help of my husband. :)

  83. Fabio Says:

    congratulations for this great and very helpful step-by-step tutorial!
    I’m from Italy and I’m a S5210 owner; my cleaner has stopped working due to a broken bearing. I followed every step but now I can’t remove the metal shield of the motor.
    Could someone explain me how can I remove it?

    Thank you guys.

  84. Simon Says:

    Someone else asked this also and to be honest it’s soo long ago now I can’t remember how I did it but I believe it’s just a tight push fit and I was able to carefully tap it off? Perhaps someone who has done it more recently can recall?

  85. Karen Says:

    We have also just dismantled a miele s571 using the instructions above (very helpful thank you :-))and found the metal shield to be very tight but managed to get it off. We gave it a few taps around the edge with a hammer which got it moving. When the edge of the metal casing was level with the plastic we then used a large flat blunted screwdriver or the narrow end of another hammer to tap on the metal edge allowing us to tap off the metal casing without damaging the plastic.

  86. Simon Says:

    Now you mention it I seem to recall I also used a hammer to gently tap the shield off. Thanks for the clarification!

  87. Steve S (Bolton, UK) Says:

    Hi – same problem as many others – used our Miele to vacuum up plastering dust… very loud motor and “hot electrics” smell even after cleaning out all dust from bag and filters and then a few days later dead as a Dodo! Have just taken it apart following your instructions… cannot believe the only difficulties were (1) locating the handle for my torx bits and (2) managing to break the silver vent cover in half (the first thing to take off!) I must admit that (2) nearly put me off going any further, but with the aid of your clear instructions I am down to the motor and ready to start clearing dust out.

    A question – if I need to sand down the coppery thing inside the motor, any suggestions on how do I do that as I don’t have access to a lathe? (I guess mounting it into a power drill isn’t going to work unless I could clamp that steady somehow? Anyone please reading this who thinks I should be leaving well alone at this point please feel free to say so – I really don’t have the knowledge or experience to know better!)

    Also, if the legs to the TRIAC thing are broken/burnt etc, is soldering the only way forward? (Yes, I am a card carrying member of the non-soldering fraternity!)

    Thanks again for such a helpful website… and fingers crossed that I get away with simply blowing dust out, lubricating the whatsits and putting the beast back together to get it working again!

  88. Simon Says:

    Unfortunately if the TRIAC is dead you will need to solder in the new one.

    To sand down the commutator (coppery thing) you can just try a quick clean up. You shouldn’t need to do anything if it isn’t scored and already looks smooth. But if you want to give it a quick clean up you can take a piece of wet and dry paper, say 400 grit, and cut a long strip about 2 inches wide. Then fold that in half lengthways so you end up with a 1 inch wide strip with grit on both sides. Wrap that 180 degrees around the commutator and just pull the ends back and forth a little to sand the copper. Rotate around the commutator to keep it even and smooth. That should allow you to just clean and polish it up a bit which should be enough. You probably don’t need to do more than give it a quick clean so it looks shiny.


  89. Steve S (Bolton, UK) Says:

    Hi Simon
    Thanks so much for the advice, and the incredibly quick response too … my wife is directing barbed jibes at me along the lines of “would you like me to pick the dirt up off the floor by hand or are you actually going to FIX the vacuum cleaner” so the sooner I get around to reassembling and firing it up the better! (And if it still doesn’t work I’m hoping that a visit to the local vacuum repair shop will result in a nice low bill, seeing as I’ve done all the disassembly work for them already! and can even direct them to a suitable replacement part, all thanks to this webpage.)
    Many thanks again!

  90. Steve S (Bolton, UK) Says:

    Well, stripped right down to the electronics but my TRIAC has all three legs still soldered but the board and the nearest edge of the other bit are black – in fact, the board has a hole in it! I am hoping that my local vacuum repair guy might be able to just get the entire board complete as a spare from Miele! Meanwhile I’ll clean everything up and live in hope that when all put back together that everything works!

  91. Steve S (Bolton, UK) Says:

    Oh boy…

    Vacuum still in pieces after a LOT of web searching and lugging bits of pcb board around local repair shops and electronic outlets…

    The thermal fuse is blown … and big style, as it’s blown the PCB board. However, the TRIAC is fine. Finding a replacement for the fuse, however…

    Miele don’t do the PCB board or components as spares, only the complete motor (at £155 UK sterling). Ouch.

    The UK distributors for Klixon thermal fuses only supply to manufacturers with a minimum order of 1,000 (I only need one!)

    Can anyone advise me of a suitable replacement for the Klixon fuse? It is the 3MP series rated at 18 amp but I cannot find out what temperature it opens the circuit at. If you (Simon) or any of your other readers can help…

    I begrudge having to spend hundreds of pounds replacing a vacuum because a part costing pence has blown!

    Many thanks – hopefully someone will see this!

  92. alberto Says:

    well, I’m taking the time to write in order to thank you.
    without this post I’m pretty sure I’d given up on the vacuum cleaner and dispose it. Getting all the way to the TRIAC and actually figure it out it was the blown part, then find the specs to order a new one through ebay it’s something beyond me. I don’t even know what a TRIAC is or what is supposed to do…
    I screwed the thing by cleaning the car carpets as some water got into the engine and it died in a cloud of smoke and smell.
    So once again thank you very much sir, you saved me from buying a new one for the time being as it’s back to life rigth now.
    you’re a heck of a DIYer. congrats on the car as well I can’t believe how far you’ve been able to go with the renewing, EPIC.
    thanks from switzerland.

  93. Simon Says:

    Thank you. It’s funny that of all my web projects the one I get the most positive comments on is repairing that vacuum cleaner! Glad it’s of use to so many people!


  94. Ian McChesney Says:

    Thanks, Simon. I was very fortunate to pick up on this. I have a TT5000 and the motor was in/out, but when I pulled it apart the brushes etc were fine.

    Without your help I would never have picked out the TRIAC – burnt just like yours. I owe you one ! Ian

  95. Gerard Says:

    congratulations for this great and very helpful step-by-step tutorial!
    I’m from South Africa and I’m a S5211 owner. After 6 years of loyal service the vacuum cleaner starting making serious noises. The repair shop wanted to charge me R1800 for fixing it (about US $180) but luckily I found this tutorial! I took it apart, cleaned the commutator and noticed the rear bearing had a lot of dirt coming out of it. I oiled it again as it seemed fine, assembled the vacuum and all is 100%! I just struggled with the following, I was afraid I will break it but succeeded in the end:
    1. Removing the plastic cover – very tight due to the front bearing residing in it
    2. Removing the rotor – also very tight due to the rear bearing

    Thanks again, was a great help!!

  96. Jim Says:

    Great article! Has really helped me out. Cheers!

    Does anyone know where to buy replacement carbon brushes online in Europe for an S5210 please?

  97. TJH Says:

    Hi Simon
    Do you know where I can buy brushes for my S4211?
    UK whitegoods keep stock of genuine Miele brushes for £40 a pair but i am looking for parts by an alternative/ cheaper supplier.
    Theunis from south africa

  98. Simon Says:

    No idea I am afraid but one thing you can try is take the brushes into a power tool repair place. They might have something that’s a close enough fit you can file them down to make them work.

  99. Alex Says:

    Hi Simon,

    I have replaced the brushes in my motor. The motor runs but smells of burning ! Any ideas why that would be?

    Alex UK

  100. Simon Says:

    No idea sorry. Is everything clean? There is no dust around the commutator?

  101. Dave Says:

    Thanks a lot for this, it was really helpful to show me how to dismantle an old Miele S5.

    Does you / anyone reading this guide have a similar breakdown of the Miele S8 generation? Specifically for the 8000 Premium, but that should be the same as the S8930, S8990 and S8 Uniq.

    I want to change the entire cable since mine is a german bought version and I don’t wish to void the warranty by cutting the plug off. Unfortunately, I can’t work out how to detach the top lid, let alone unclip the electronics board.

  102. Mark Says:

    Hi Simon,

    First of all… super tutorial. I’ve got the S5211 and while cleaning the machine suddenly went dead and it wouldn’t turn on again. Disassembled the whole thing, found one leg of carbon brush holder broken. Made wired/soldered connection between brush holder and pin connection instead, tested this solution with multimeter. Cleaned communicator. Measured PCB diode, resistors and found nothing strange. Although I have my doubts on one miniscule capacitor on the back with no reading at all. But anyway..the bloody thing still won’t start. :-)
    Any ideas what to recheck?

  103. Simon Says:

    No idea I am afraid. It sounds like you’ve done a pretty thorough check. I am not sure what else to suggest sorry.

  104. Mike Says:

    Any idea why our Miele s812 pulses?
    It will run ok at 600 watts but when I go above this the motor constantly pulses.
    Still sucking ok.Replaced bottom bearing about a year ago.

  105. Vis Says:

    Hi Simon,
    my Miele vacuum does a lot of noise, from 1/3 power and up seems like to explode!
    So I dismantled the motor using your guide, I just could not separate the rotor from the white circular plastic cover, anyway, I cleaned the contact of the brushes and the inside of the motor.
    Re-assembled, it makes even more noise…
    Now at minimum is not constant, and still going to explode from 1/3 power up.

  106. Phil Says:

    Great article, thanks very much. Followed it from start to finish and my machine is now not screaming like a hurricane after sucking up to much plaster dust. Many Thanks.

  107. Lee Says:

    Dear Simon:

    Thanks a million for a great tutorial. I love it when there are step-by-step guides with photos. You rock! I have successfully taken many of my household machines apart for repair and maintenance, which is unusual for a woman, I understand.

    I have taken the Miele carpet motor brush apart a million times for cleaning, and needed a small part recently. When I went to restock my vacuum bags, I asked for the part and the salesman said I should not know about such a part since I am not supposed to take it apart. Right. With 3 cats and kids no less.

    The motor stopped suddenly once last month and again today and my husband said it was loose filters….I think it is overheating for some reason, since it suddenly came back on a short while later. It is only 3 years old and I baby it but I can see where this is going to need an overhaul and I am so glad that you posted this.

    I can’t go back to the dealer anymore since they changed hands and the service is not the same. So THANKS AGAIN!!

  108. Micky T Says:

    Brilliant, Some idiot (it may have been me) used his nice Miele vacuum cleaner to suck up an awful lot of concrete dust he had made whilst chasing a floor channel…….Thank you so very much for this fantastically simple and yet totally complete and comprehensive guide on how to dismantle and repair a Miele vacuum cleaner and then best of all be able to put the thing back together again and it work!!! Superb guide thank you so very much.

  109. William Gardiner Says:

    Very clear write-up, but the note that the bolt holding the fan to the motor shaft is a lefthand thread needs to be emphasised! I had come to a dead end until I read this.

    The T2550H-600T triac is obsolete, but a very close equivalent is the BTB-600BWRG (also by ST) is very close. The temperature rating is not quite as high, but good enough to get the cleaner going again.

    The motor itself can be tested safely and easily with a 12VDC lead acid battery (the current is still quite high). If working, it will spin nicely and quite quietly, without any risk of electrocution! Apply the voltage (polarity does not matter) across the two pins that the the triac unit plugs into inside the motor.

  110. Michael Hadad Says:

    Thank you very much for a much informative article. My vac today was used on a wet carpet and the machine stopped working. The same happend to another old Miele unit, I found some burnt out contacts, I snipped and recconected them and the motor is running again. Whatever caused them to burn, might cause some other damage if I use it again. Back to my current machine an s5211 very similar to the one you took apart. If the motor stopped working due to water suction, but could have gone wrong and is it saveable? It is not old at all hence my desire to repair it.

  111. Synergist Says:

    Had done all of the above by myself (Triac with busted leg causing arcing. Left the bottom bearing in the housing and chucked the armuture in the drill to clean the commutator. Was going to write up with photos. Now I don’t have to, thanks. PS mine is a S5310, the tabs on the top are a little different.

  112. robert Says:

    I have the blue moon S658. New belt, brush roller is still intermittant, bypassed long wands, even with the handpiece directly into the power nozzle, I gently twist the housing, & will do it.
    Removed the cowels covering the wiring, & looks ok, on both pieces, but still is intermittant.
    Any ideas?

  113. Synergist Says:

    Find the motor control circuit here

  114. Simon Says:

    Great, thanks for that!

  115. John de Rivaz Says:

    Thanks for that helpful article.

    Our machine failed failed this morning, and a test with a meter suggested brush failure.

    Upon taking our motor apart, I found that the brushes were fine. However the spade tag had broken off on one side. I was able to solder it back on with a thick bit of wire for extra support.

    The same machine failed a few months back because of a dry joint in the motor control board. Soldering it properly cleared the fault.

    It doesn’t say much for the build quality of these machines, although when running people seem to like them.

  116. Rita Says:

    Live and learn. While recaulking our shower we created white dust everywhere in the house, thus lots of vacuuming was required daily. Finally the poor machine stopped running. But, yeah, we got it going again. Hauled the leaf-blower from the shed and started a mini hurricane on the patio, turning the Miele canister every which way in the process. Afterwards went and bought a Shop Vac!

  117. Joe West Says:

    Thanks for the step-by-step instructions and photos. Fortunately, my motor was fine. My problem? The wire connections inside the retractable cord housing. It had been previously repaired with elec. tape (I bought it used) and when the cord was stretched to its max, the connection came loose. Cut the wire and refitted it with spade connectors. Problem solved. Wife happy. Thanks again.

  118. John aka Grandad Says:

    You are a “bloody genius” your step by step allowed me to pull apart easily & fix power switch on our S5210. Thanks heaps mate from John(aka Grandad) NSW Australia

  119. Frank Says:

    Thanks for the the guide, I’ve a Miele S536 but it has very similar build (and strip) features. My problem was the TRIAC’s legs had become detached from the PCB and arcing saw the end of the pcb conductors. I simply used a suitable piece of flex to reconnect one TRIAC leg to the PCB and Frau Miele is fixed.

    Love the train table!

  120. Simon Says:

    I need to start finishing off that table! Better order some glass for it soon.

  121. Rodney Says:

    Thanks for a very useful tutorial , i would never have got my Miele s5310 apart without this!

    You have obviously saved many other time and frustration with this post.

    My motor has cut out and I suspect it is the TRIAC as you had ..but I cnlt get the white housing off to expose the innards of the motor, I’ve got the reversed nut (thanks again) and blower housing off but something seems to be holding the white housing?

  122. Rodney Says:

    ok ignore that last question, I’ve popped the white cover off and into the motor, TRIAC looks ok no physical sings of a problem..now to test

  123. Steve Says:

    For what it’s worth, I had the commutator turned down and new brushes installed into a S5210 recently. It arced like crazy. The guy who fitted the brushes said that the resistance of the generic Chinese ones he used didn’t match the armature and the motor was trying to blow itself to bits. Long story short, make sure you put the right brushes in.

  124. Hermen van den Herik Says:


    Thanks for the usefull tutorial. But a question: how to you remove the nut holding the blower fan in place? As its bolted onto the freely rotating rotor. Is there a safe way to block the rotor ax?

  125. Hermen van den Herik Says:

    Never mind, got that nut loose by clamping the blower fan in a vice. Was looking for antother way, beeing afraid this might damage the fan. And indeed the vice clamps did damage it a (tiny) bit. I just hope the balance isnt gone. We’ll see.

  126. Simon Says:

    For things like that I usually use an air impact wrench (I mainly use it on car stuff)! I can’t remember how I did it on mine. I probably just held it very firmly with something. Can’t remember if I used the vice or not or some kind of clamp. You should be fine if the damage is minor balance wise.

  127. Hermen van den Herik Says:

    Nice, its working again! And better than ever. Well maybe not ever, but since quite a while anyway.
    Glad I didnt order a new >$200 motor yet, because it turned out that only one of the coal brushes got stuck in its casing, due to accumulated dirt and coaldust. Cleaned the whole rotor area and casings with compressed air and a fine copper wire brush, re-assembled and voila!. Despite the slightly damaged blowerfan I think the balance is OK, although the vc seems to make a bit more noise than before.
    Thanks again for the tutorial, and btw sorry for the bad spelling. As you most probably guessed English is not my home lingo.

  128. Hermen van den Herik Says:

    One final note, the nut holding the blower fan is indeed -like you mentioned_ reverse threaded. So you have turn it clockwise to undo it.

  129. stu Says:

    anybody knows where to get the thermal fuse part number 3MP331 01 it on pcb with the triac

  130. Ian Says:

    Thanks for this excellent set of step-by-step instructions. Our Miele started making a hideous sound and smell after being used long after the bag was rock hard and the filters totally clogged. I suspected damaged bearings. Armed with your tutorial I dismantled the vacuum, bought two new bearings (NZ$24), got a local mechanic to remove the old bearings with a bearing puller and press the new ones in place, totally cleaned and reassembled the machine, and it’s working just fine. The only suggestion I can add is that pipe cleaners are just the thing for cleaning the 18 flutes of the fan.

  131. Daniel Gravell Says:

    Anyone know a way of reversing this model, or any of the S5000 series, to blow instead of suck?

  132. another Ian Says:

    be careful with the triac replacement it is a 150 degree c type,normal triac 90c max, the klixon is a bimetallic trip,trips on overcurrent or overheat opens at 150 degrees c, to hold the fan blower wrap a leather strap around the circumference, gives you enough grip to undo the nut. if it arcs like mad, its a short circiut coil on the armature, measure bar to adjacent bar on the commutator with an ohmmeter. reading should be 0.8 of an ohm.alternative to klixon available from seMitec northwich UK, ask for a PJB1500501BB.

  133. another Ian Says:

    equivalent triac for high temperature use is, BTA425Y 800CT manufactured by NXP.

  134. Simon Says:

    Most ‘blow’ vacuum cleaners I have seen have a separate hose attachment on the outlet. I don’t know of any that actually reverse?

  135. another Ian Says:

    another triac is from rs spares uk 829-0618, T2035H-6T closest match yet.this is a high temp triac.

  136. tony Says:

    After removing the metal shield how do you remove the nut holding the blower fan in place.
    An almost impossible task without damaging the blower fan. please help

  137. schlum Says:

    To Tony : you have to turn it clockwise to remove it… And yes, you will need some gloves to avoid cutting yourself (ask my left hand….)

  138. Simon Says:

    Tony, I have the same problem, did you find a solution?

  139. Simon Says:

    OK I’ve figured it out in the meantime. I put on a pair of gloves not to cut myself on the fan blade and applied gentle pressure with one hand whilst undoing the nut with the other. The triac looks fine to the naked eye but the motor seems to have become damaged from water so need to figure what exactly is the problem. Any tips welcome.

  140. Simon Says:

    Sorry, I am being slow. Yes, hold the fan in a cloth or with gloves. An oil filter removing tool might also work well. Something that can grip around the edge without damaging it.

    The nut is a reverse thread so you do turn it clockwise to remove it (the opposite of a ‘normal’ nut.

  141. Pietro Says:

    Great job and very useful to fix my S6.
    It was the triac also for me.
    Thank you from Rome (Italy)

  142. Another ian Says:

    Wrap a leather belt around the circumference of the fan and grip the two ends. Works a treat.

  143. Another ian Says:

    If a lot of water went in,the windings insulation could be compromised. Get an electrician with a megger to test the insulation of the armature and field windings. After you have put the motor somewhere warm to dry out for a couple of weeks.(airing cupboard)

  144. Charles Jones Says:

    Hi, my s5211 just died away in use. | suspected the brushes and confidently undid the 4 screws and thats when I lost the plot. I could not see the release clips even though I knew they had to be there. Well, I am 81. And then I found this outstanding website. May the bird of paradise fly up your nose. The exact pin points to press and pull. It turned out that the brush holder had snapped at the point where the link to the stator joins. I shall now purchase a new one. I have got all these separate parts spread out on the floor and this is a true case of “The sum of the parts is greater than the whole” Many,many thanks for your thoughtfulness in putting all this detail out for the people who believe in self repair. south Wales

  145. Charles Jones Says:

    I’m not sure what the line at the top is about a comment but I did not write it

  146. Charles Jones Says:

    Silly me. I thought there would be lots of sites where I could get a new brush holder.Even two. I rang Miele in the end and they do not keep spare brushes or holders, just expensive motors.I shall have to get the soldering iron out and join a link twixt holder and spade. Hope this bit of info helps somebody sometime

  147. ellvj Says:

    just want to say thank you for the inspiration. i have a Miele S514 vacume, but its similar & your info inspired me, only a very minor thing to replace the lid, but your photos & mindset were helpful… thank-you,

  148. Peter Thornton Says:

    Thanks mate, have now been able to get my machine apart.

    Seems as if the brushes had worn our and then torn up the commutator. Guess I need a new armature and new brushes. Problem is that’s getting towards the cost of a new vacuum!
    Conclusion I’ve come to is not to use a “house Miele” to clean up building work etc! I think that’s what probably trade the brushes.

  149. Peter Thornton Says:

    Thanks mate, have now been able to get my machine apart.

    Seems as if the brushes had worn our and then torn up the commutator. Guess I need a new armature and new brushes. Problem is that’s getting towards the cost of a new vacuum!
    Conclusion I’ve come to is not to use a “house Miele” to clean up building work etc! I think that’s what probably trashed the brushes.
    Have now had a look at the brushes and found that they have not worn away, they were just stuck in the holders which were all burred over at the end. It looks as if the commutator segment had begun to work loose then battered the brush holders.

  150. STEVEN Says:


  151. STEVEN Says:


  152. Edward Louie Says:

    Did you use genuine miele bags when cleaning up the sanding and file debrie? I have used my miele to clean up lots of construction debrie and it seems fine. I did check periodically to make sure the bag didn’t get to the point of bursting full. The 9 ply miele filterbag plus the premotor filter seems to be a better protection to the vacuum motor than any shopvac I know of. Most shopvag fine dust bags are a thin 3 ply at most combined with a “hepa” cylinder style premotor filter and I doubt the shopvac motor is better protected. I have used my miele to clean drywall dust, gutters loaded with asphalt shingles rocks and dust, paint scrapings, sawdust, and it is still running fine. I tape the lid to the bag with masking tape to keep it from lifting up when I rough it around construction jobs. Unlike shop vacs that clog, the miele hose and outlet is larger than the inlet which prevents clogs. When it does clog at the hose handle I disconnect the hose and run the vacuum with the handle end inserted into the vacuum the suction always clears the clog.

  153. Jon Says:

    I have a snapped door hinge – are they easy to replace?

  154. Phil Says:

    Great article, well written and absolutely accurate. You saved me the cost of new Miele vacuum cleaner.
    Well done, Phil

  155. Simon Says:

    I need to do another update. Mine blew up again but I was able to fix it again. I had to use my own instructions to remember how to take it apart!

  156. Simon Says:

    If you can get a replacement it might be possible. I doubt you could find one though.

  157. Simon Says:

    I don’t think I have ever seen genuine Miele bags on sale here (in NZ) so I have always used generic ones. I would like to find some so I can replace the other filters in the vac. You don’t get them with the generics of course. I do now have a proper shop vac which has a huge, car like, air filter in it since it can be used bagless. My Miele is only used for household things now.

  158. Chris Says:

    Thanks so much! Like a lot of people in this thread, you just saved me at least a couple of hundred dollars. The vacuum is running like a dream, thanks to your fantastic instructions.

  159. Grunf Says:

    Thank you for the tutorial!
    I will need it if anyone knows what is problem when motor speed varying, irrespective of the position of the speed control?
    Thank you!

  160. Sailor-Greece Says:

    Great article congrats for helping so many people!
    Miele is a great tool and thank you for make as save some money..
    Same story here cleaned some paint scrapings and wall dust with aftermarket bag (not the original)and Miele went crazy sounding like airplane trying to take off!Followed your guide and sprayed A LOT of WD40 in the motor cleaned everything and now it’s like brand new.Well that spray is pure magic..
    Thanks again !

  161. Raoul Says:

    Many thanks for the detailed description. I had used my S5211 in my workshop and too much sawdust got into the motor and fan enclosure (I was using cheap filters that often came lose from the hose) until the motor eventually clogged up. I was about to throw the entire vac away as the motor unit spare part was more expensive than a brand new Miele until I found this blog showing how to repair the motor itself.

    I had to remove clogged saw dust from the aluminium fan (the cable ties did an excellent job) and had to replace the Triac. Works again and saved me a lot of money.

  162. Bal Sangeezer Says:

    Thank You!

    This is the first time in ages I’ve actually been bowled over by something on the World Wide Web.

    Was looking to fix a stuck Miele adjustable vacuum stick; whilst I was absorbed in reading this, the wife managed to fix the adjustable pole!

    Thank You!

  163. Graham Says:

    just used youe site to fix vacum and discovered the thingimy also had a broken leg, resoldered and good for another 20 years.

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