A model railway dining table – Part 3.

July 1st, 2014

Today I got ripped and shaved my legs.

I went to see Joss and we cut the table top into strips on his saw. That’s the ripping part. The top was split but we were able to cut past most of that. He also showed my how to use a spokeshave and let me borrow that so I could shave my legs. We also came up with a good plan on how to do the table frame.

The legs needed shaving because the bottom of them was quite fat and it looked a little funny having a small diameter cup castor and a large diameter wooden leg sitting on top of them.

IMG_2122_1 Ugly!

The spokeshave is a little cutting tool, with a blade like a plane, that you use to shave down pieces of wood.

IMG_2123_1 IMG_2124_1

You use it two handed (I needed one hand for the camera above) and push it away from you taking thin slices off the timber. You can sort of curve it around the leg as you shave to get nice, smooth cuts. I was able to hold the leg in the vice and shave the diameter of the leg down until it matched the castor. The spokeshave leaves a nice finish but I made it totally smooth with a bit of 120 grit paper.


Again that was done two handed just rubbing the paper around the leg by alternately pulling the ends up and down in a vigorous manner.


Side by side you can see how much better the shaved down legs will look.

IMG_2131_1 Smooth!

The top was ripped into boards the right height for the new table sides. I’ll need to trim them down length wise. One thing we found is they are quite warped.


So instead of using them as the actual side frames we have another plan. I am going to make the frame part from square, straight pine. These will be notched into the legs and glued in place with a dowel. The side pieces will then just attach to those.

IMG_2135_1 IMG_2136_1

I will route a slot in the legs for the facing pieces to slide down into so that at the ends everything looks neat and tidy. It will also help stop the side boards from warping. These will sit slightly lower down than the framing piece too so that I can screw a flat, thin base to the bottom of the table. The base will sit against the main rails and be flush with the bottom of the sides. A sliding panel in the base will give access to the underside of the railway.

Because the legs are square it means the railway has to fit in between the opposite diagonals of the legs. That means there is a gap between the railway and the sides. Part is taken up by the frame rails of course but there should be enough room there to put the electronics.

There will be a top frame that goes over the legs and sides. This will mask the inside of the table up to the edges of the railway and also provide a nice flat surface for the main top. That will be a wooden frame with a glass insert of course hinged along one edge so it can lift up.

Should all be much clearer when I build it and take photos!

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