A model railway dining table – Part 8.

August 12th, 2014

Another day where I rushed home from work and straight out to the shed. I trimmed the long ends and cut the ends of them in about 30 minutes. Easy once you know how. Amazingly the sides are all even and if you make one corner square the rest are too! IMG_2461_1 I then started looking at how I can reduce the thickness without having to find someone with a thicknesser. I attached a small block to my router base board thinking what I can do is set the bit to the depth of the block by sitting the base on another block the same size then setting the bit to that depth. Then I can start routing the end of a board and slowly slide the router back down along the board in the same was as I did the ends. Only I can do the entire board. The base board rides on top of the uncut bit while the little block at the far end of the board rides on the just cut surface. That should keep the cuts very even. IMG_2465_1 I didn’t get a picture of the fully routed board. When you get to the end you just place another bit of uncut board under the router so you can continue past the end. The cut was very smooth but not perfect so next I looked at planing it smooth. To do that I made a board with a block screwed to it that I can hold in my vice, not having a proper woodworking table or workmate I can clamp the boards in. That board has a block screwed to one end as a stop. Then I could lay my table top board on that pushed hard up against the stop. I then added another block held with a clamp at the far end. Now the board couldn’t move as I planed it. IMG_2468_1 That worked really well! That’s a planed test board above. The reason I want to reduce the thickness is so I don’t need as much padding under the glass and also to remove the bevel that is on the edge of the boards. IMG_2467_1 That bevel is quite large. And because of how I have joined the ends it makes a groove in the table top. I want to remove that but then later add a new bevel just around the edges where the glass goes to prevent the edges splitting. I did notice my router bit was broken after doing this. It was chipped anyway before I started but it has now lost one cutting face entirely. Also the 6mm block I used under the router was too thick. I think 3 or 4mm will be enough. The hand planing doesn’t take too much more off. It will be a lot of work but I think it will be worth it. It doesn’t need to be perfect of course as it’s a rustic, railway table! I bought the top pieces in and laid them on the table frame to see how it will look. IMG_2469_1 IMG_2470_1 Looks good! The top is 825mm above the floor. Tall but usable. That’ll come down a little if I route and plane the top of course. Sitting at it made me feel like you do when you’re a kid and you’re allowed to sit at the big table for the first time. It feels big! And that’s a good thing for a table with a train in it I think!

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